Day 3: Off with a Bang

Today’s itinerary included a neighborhood orientation tour, our first group tram ride, a visit to Central Station, a boat tour, walking around old town, the Prostitute Information Centre tour, and then dinner, a phone call home, and then bed. Whew! Oh, and don’t forget the herring we sampled today. Raw Herring. Hmm.

This morning Onno gave us a small orientation about the history of the hotel and the surrounding neighborhoods, and a frame of mind to consider who was living in this neighborhood from an economic standpoint. It was good to hear both the positive and negative things of the area - close to Vondelpark, but also the need to have street smarts, just like any other city.


The neighborhood walking tour by Dr. G was very informative. Even though I had walked past many of the places already, he knew more about the type of cuisine, or the business function from past trips, and that extra information was helpful in choosing where to go and what to do for dinner this evening. I know that I will at least be bringing back a tin of cookies from the bakery that was pointed out. As part of this tour, Dr. G offered to spring for the cost of purchasing some raw herring for those willing/or interested in partaking of the local delicacy. I said why the heck not and went for it. While the taste was tolerable, I was having more problems controlling my gag reflex as I attempted to swallow the slimy mass - it just did not want to go down! After a few seconds, I was able to get it down and conclude that while I am not eager to repeat the experience any time soon, I wouldn’t die from having tried herring. I think I will focus more on getting my hands on Dutch cheese and pancakes instead.


The tram ride was a lot more enjoyable today since I was a little more comfortable about the stops for the area, and what we were going by. The Central Station Zoo was just that.. a massive Zoo of people! But we were able to obtain our weekly pass for the tram with our picture IDS, and then walk around Old Town before catching our Holland International Boat Tour. I found a hemp coin purse that I was hoping to find, which was excellent - eco friendly and functional at the same time! Now I have a place for my coins without having to use the wallet for my American cards and drivers license - less chance for them to be just laying around while we are not at the hotel. Jessica and Laura were great to hang out with during this part, and we all just took it easy and followed paths to see where they would go.


While the boat tour was great for actually being exposed to different types of architecture and history, I have to admit I know very little about what the buildings were actually depicting, or who the architecture or time period was. I caught a few such as the oldest house on Magnificent Bend, the comments about the boat houses being more economical, and the Dam as we passed it. I hope to at least follow the boat route online or with maps and try to recreate the English guide tour. At least we can say we tried to get the information in some form! It did help that I had seen some of the pictures from Dr. G’s presentation, and from the pictures of the students who have gone to Amsterdam in previous years. I would love to have a chance to go back to the areas the tour covered.


Bicycles. Bicycles. Bicycles. I have a feeling I may need to make a huge stockpile of band-aids. I am slightly apprehensive as I have ridden bikes as a child growing up, but sensitive balance due to my hearing loss has never before been subject to such dense riding quarters as those we will be encountering in Amsterdam. To be honest though, when I think of my first trip to Amsterdam, I do not remember the bikes first off. I remember the canals, and everything being broken up by boats on the water. THEN I remember bikes as I shared a narrow sidewalk with folks trying to squeeze on, trams, buses, and then the cars squeezing in where they may. I was never so afraid of being squashed like a bug in all of my European travels, the way I felt in Amsterdam. Milan, Italy was a close second but that was more in older residential alleys that were not the main thoroughfares for travel. Having this experience, it really blows my mind the way the locals can be so close to the moving traffic and not flinch at all. I am curious to see if I would be more comfortable being on a bike than being a pedestrian, as you are moving a little quicker and also possibly more visible to the other faster traffic. If nothing else, I am not sure I am so confident that the attitude towards bicyclists by motor vehicles provides a more safe passage. Even though the statistics from the paper by Osberg and Stiles and Buehler’s draft state lower injury and fatality rates compared to the United States, Buehler points out that helmet use is seen as a negative attraction to cycling.

Hearing all the cases in the United States about how the bike helmet is what saved someone’s life, you really start to look and compare to find out how this could possibly be the case. The 45 mph zones that bicyclist share the shoulder with cars being the primary area where bicyclists can ride and still get from Point A to B no doubt has a contribution on the US Side. With the way the US develops though, I’m not sure where you could even begin to be developing function bicycle trails as an active form of transportation. Bike trails that I have experienced are typically recreation in fashion, looping around a park or designated scenic area. If I had a job, grocery store, and amenities within the park, I’d be all set! Oh. ……wait. I should be living in New York City across from Central park, and not in Louisville.

I could possibly see Louisville become partially bike friendly since the city has been around a long time and has back alleys that could become shared bike paths. However, after living in Arizona which has a lot of recent (less that 50 years old) development, everything seems to be done at right angles, with no room left to add unless you’re significantly expanding or tearing down a structure and starting over. That will never crunch out to be cost effective, which will be a necessary component in order to pitch to cities for implementation.

Perhaps this may change as the oil crisis becomes more pronounced. However, I think until there is actually a shortage or ration on oil, people will not CHOOSE to use another mode of transportation. I know for me, I spent several hundred dollars a month between insurance and the actual cost of paying for the loan on my truck. I feel compelled to drive my truck in order to maximize its economic and real cost. If I were taking a form of public transportation, as I do not currently own a bike, I would be paying all this money, just to have my truck sit in the driveway. It is just not realistic in our city the way it has been designed and grown to navigate the city solely by foot, bus, or bike. I want to do that as a challenge to myself with this class, attempt to make it to school and back by bike to have the experience, and see just how long it would take for TARC to get me to school and back. In Arizona, I wanted to try to do so to minimize my driving, and I took the shuttle from campus to campus when I had 1 class on a different campus. That was a nice experience, but the tickets were $2 each way, and the bus was a coach bus – air conditioned, more comfortable, reclining seating, and the bus was primarily rode by students. It had 2 stops, both at colleges, and was very reasonably on time as a result. Taking the city bus in Arizona would have taken me 2 hours from my home to school, compared to a 20 minute drive and a 15 minute walk from the parking lot to my first class.


After our boat tour, it was time for an afternoon of snack scrounging and checking out Old Town before out meeting at Old Church for a tour of the Red Light District. A Brie and cucumber tomato baguette sandwich hit the spot for me. We checked out a few more shops in the general area of Central Station, and then started the process of working our way towards the Dam Square to locate the Prostitute information Centre (PIC). We knew we were getting close when we stumbled upon a street about 2 blocks west of the general district and were met with ladies showcasing themselves. We stopped at the corner shop for some cappuccino to warm up - the wind had picked up, and we all had hats, scarves, and gloves on to keep warm. The hour we had to kill before the PIC meeting went quickly as we attempted to locate Dam Square, and then try and determine which way you were supposed to be facing to be going Right of the Grand Hotel Klopansky. A few wrong turns and detours later, we were finally at the steps of the PIC. The most entertaining event of the night was stopping to as a worker of the Old Church where the PIC was located. His response was to appear flabbergasted at my request, and told me he had no idea what we were talking about. We turned the corner of the church after speaking to this man, and lo and behold, the PIC stood on the very next street.

Benna was a great host and tour guide, and I am so impressed with her command of the English Language. Even when she was not quite sure of her usage, she was spot on, and I am glad I was able to tell her that. She had a lot of good insight into the realities of prostitution in our human society, and especially did a good job of showcasing the general Dutch attitude towards prostitution and matter of fact acceptance. I really like how she was able to articulate well to any question, and make it both a history and a social policy lesson. Being able to answer a wide variety of questions only made the experience that much more meaningful. It was a different experience being on the side of the window, and it was easy to feel more secure - you were choosing whom you let in and out, and would have been in command of your own space. I am glad I took the extra step to have a picture taken of myself on the chair, even if it is hard to show any sex appeal under 4 layers of winter clothing!

The dinner tonight was the local Dutch hangout Des Bors, and it was a very relaxing dinner. We all got to try the House tap Juliper Belgian beer, and had a variety of entrees, from Ham and Cheese to Smashpot to Pasta Veggie and Carbonara. I was very happy with my Carbonara - the shaved cheese slices brought it home!

I am surprised at how quickly today went - it is hard to believe I am already 4 days into this trip, if I include the time in the airport on Wednesday. I am glad I have spent today with a mixture of folks - it keeps my perspective fresh, and is helping me get a chance to better know the folks in the class.